HONG KONG: One Big Buddha, a Cable Car and a French Chinese dinner

Sunday 15^th April: Cable cars, one Large Buddha and one final dinner. VIDEO INCLUDED.

Today is our last full day in Hong Kong, with the visit to the Big Buddha via cable cars and a final dinner reunion as highlights of the day, here is how things unfolded:

12.00pm: We are making our way through HK’s public transport system –tram, metro- to the Big Buddha, the second largest outdoors Buddha statue in the world at 34 metres tall. We will also be taking the cable cars route, which though are not the cheapest, provide great views; and a little bit of height.

As we reach the cable car station, it inevitably reminds me of the cable cars in the Alps, only that instead of skis and gloves I am wearing sandals and shorts. Ah, and there is no snow (in case you had not figured that out yet).

Cable car on our way to the Big Buddha - Cosy towers of flats, and some water; and no snow, booo

 The views are stunning and, as well as the large towers of flats, we can see Hong Kong Airport. An unusual good view of an airport, which comes to show how much is going on everywhere in and around it, on that tiny piece of man-made land.

Hong Kong Airport from the cable car. "Flight XYZ123 landing granted, roger, roger"

12.45pm: We can now see the Big Buddha. And it is big. Sitting atop of a mountain and slightly looking down, it is quite an imposing image. I can’t help to think if they had built a few more around, on the other mountains nearby, the view would be really compelling – DISCLAIMER: I do not know how much costs or how long it takes to build one of these statues, but I am just saying; you read it here first.

The Big Buddha, 34 metres tall. And we are some distance away

As we walk from the station to the stairs to the Buddha, there are plenty of shops and food places. Pablo explains that this development is not more than a couple of years old, if that. ‘Oringinally’ –as our Siem Reap tour guide would have said- there was just the Buddha and little else.

Randomly, we bump into some guys jumping on some tricky little things – sorry, cannot describe them really- while club music plays on. You better watch on:

As we make our way to the staircase, the area becomes less commercial and more mystical, in a way, with some small temples nearby and joss sticks of all forms, shapes and sizes giving the atmosphere a special air.

Once you get closer, it all feels more mystical - and burning.

1.15pm: David and I start our walk up the stairs... Yes, you read well, MORE STAIRS. It was less than 48hrs ago that we had walked up and down more than 6,000 steps on a mighty trek and here we were again.

Thankfully, it was nothing as big as on Friday and surprisingly the legs are feeling quite up for it. A sign maybe that fitness is not so bad after all!

We had paid our HK$25 (about US$3) to get to enter the Buddha, and a free ice cream. However, once you get to the top, there isn’t really much to do or see. Inside the Buddha there are about three floors, with mostly long texts in Chinese (no English translation), some photos and/or memorabilia.

It is funny how we go back here to the concept of quality, the difference between what you expect and what you get. However in this instance, it is a tricky one because inside this Big Buddha, you do not really know what to expect and therefore it is difficult to know what you will get.

In my opinion, what you get is not much – but then again, you just have spent less than £2 to enter; so you cannot really complain that much. [NB: yes, you can read about things online beforehand for free these days to know what to expect, but I hadn’t.]

Mickey was trying to do a runner, but I didn't let him go far.

Somehow, however, you feel a little something different. It may be that you are, literally speaking, a little closer to the big guy up there –whoever and wherever that is. Or it may be that you just have walked up 500 steps to find this; or the grey clouded and slightly windy morning, which has a silent threat of rain and/or storm at any minute. But it feels different.

On our way back we stop to grab some food – and find what I called the ‘Chopsticks Heaven’.

Chopsticks heaven - and some colour

Hong Kong food menus - colourful and alive

The views on the cable car on our way back are, again, quite impressive. I feel like swimming any minute now.

"EVERYBODY listen to me - when I say "do not jump", I mean it. You understand???"

And up close you notice the density of the population here...

A larger-than-life chess board, sort of.

4.00pm: On the way back to Pablo’s flat, I can’t help but notice that we have a “friend” that is following us everywhere...

Big Brother is watching you...

Also, as we enter Pablo’s block of flats, we notice a sign on the lift... I did not know what to feel at the time, so I let you decide for yourselves!

The main thing is not "not to hurt anybody", no. The main thing is "not to commit a criminal offence".
IS THAT NOT CLEAR ENOUGH?!?!?!? Now, happy shooting.

5.00pm: Once back in town we get changed and head straight out for a couple of final beers by the Hong Kong bay, as well as for dinner with Steve and Carol and some other friends.

One final tram journey; you get it.

We make a stop at a trendy shopping centre. So trendy they even have our very own Spanish Jamón Serrano and a few other Spanish delicatessen...

Ese JAMONCITOOOOOOO OLE, OLE, OOOOOOOLEEEE!!!!

8.30pm: We meet Steve, Carol, Frances, Leanne, Macca, Vincent and JD for dinner at a kind of “Chinese Bristo” place – excuse my French. Steve and Carol take care of ordering food, and since Pablo, JD, David and I are present, Steve has no repairs in ordering food for like 20 people.

It turns out to be a delicious dinner with all sort of meaty, fishy and vegetables dishes – all very good and impossible for me to describe. But rest assured we didn’t leave anything. After dinner we have a couple of final drinks on the street in a busy area, particularly for being a Sunday night and we have a relatively early night.

One final walk around HK at night - a city that virtually never sleeps.

BYE BYE HONG KONG: It is a great way to end what have been some fantastic few days in this crazy, little city. Not only did I have the chance to spend some good time with Steve and Pableras again, we did many different things to the ‘typical holiday’ and it really feels like there was not a moment of pause. I got to meet some of Steve’s close friends too and, specially, it was great to see Frances again. Many great memories come with me from these few days in Hong Kong. And I cannot wait to be back again some time. THANK YOU STEVE, THANK YOU HONG KONG. SEE YOU SOON.

HONG KONG: A Great Wedding Celebration, Part Two

Saturday 14^th April – A Great Hong Kong Wedding Celebration, Part Two

The last entry covered the hours before one of my best friend’s wedding in Hong Kong. I will try now to cover some of the great moments we shared once the Ceremony started.

3.00pm: We are all at the Shangrila Hotel, with all guests already seated in this beautifully dressed Wedding room:

- Steve, the groom, stands smiling and relaxed on his place.

- The groom’s wedding party, aka The Ushers, aka us, is all set in line, to his side – from shortest to tallest, and yes, I was the tallest one - sorry Rich.

- The five bridesmaids make their entrance, one by one walking the aisle, smiling and cute, as beautiful music is played, on their lovely and elegant dark purple dresses. They take their places to the left of where the bride will shortly be standing.

- Finally, Carol, the gorgeous bride on her beautiful wedding dress, enters the room and walks up the aisle with the cutest of smiles on her face; it is a moment of great joy and excitement - we can all feel it. She is also looking at his groom Steve, as she walks towards him. They are happy, they are excited, they are smiling with pride and emotion. After all these months, THIS IS IT.

As Carol makes her final steps and stands next to him they hold hands, briefly, and share a moment of delight and privacy with their eyes, a smile, a whisper, ‘we have arrived’ they seem to say to each other.

The Ceremony’s Master of Ceremonies takes charge, welcoming everyone present, and we are off...

To respect the privacy of such important moment in the lives of anyone, I will only share that it was a beautiful and modern ceremony yet it carried the formality and detail of the best Chinese tradition, with some very cute and personal moments.

Immediately afterwards we have a few and very welcomed glasses of a great and perfectly cold Champagne, to celebrate the happy union.

The newly weds Steve and Carol toast with everyone

4.15pm: The newly weds Steve and Carol, their closest relatives, the bridesmaids and the ushers stay at the hotel for photos. Meanwhile, the 80+ guests are driven by bus to the HK bay to board a traditional Chinese boat, for an hour long trip along the bay with drinks and canapés served on board. Everything is working like a Swiss watch, absolutely perfect.

6.30pm: We are at the 39^th floor of the hotel and we do a bit of time travelling, in great style this time. This is the Shangrila’s Library room and it looks and feels like an old British-like library, with its dark brown-blueish leather seats and sofas, its floor-to-ceiling thick books ranks and golden ladders on the walls, its flowered carpet and dark green high and thick rounded marvel columns – with another fantastic view of Hong Kong from windows that are decorated with beautiful and light coloured flowers.

You would be excused to expect Winston Churchill would come around the corner, smoking one of his famous cigars any minute now. Instead, you got me:

My usual Saturday afternoon gym outfit.

As the guests get back from what they say was a really special boat trip, drinks are served and everyone mingles around – with some informal photos being taken too.

8.00pm: Everyone moves to the large dining room and take their seats on the great looking tables. 

The Wedding cake and Table #1 of the beautifully dressed dining room at the Shangrila Hotel

Pableras and I have the honour to share the main table with Steve and Carol, Steve’s mum and sister as well as some of Carol’s bridesmaids.

One of the many beautiful moments shared with the newly weds

It was at this moment that I recalled the day Steve told me that he, finally, had proposed - and more importantly that Carol had accepted. It was one day in May 2011 and I was at Dublin airport, soon boarding back to London after a day of meetings. [NB: well, I am not sure it was exactly in May, but I was definitely at Dublin Airport; reason I don't remember exactly is that I went to Dublin pretty much every week between January and August 2011].

They were spending a week in France and I had been asking him all week: “have you proposed yet??? Have you proposed yet??? Come on mate, you cannot go to France and do all this romantic stuff and not propose, that’s just not right” to which he always responded stuff like “crazy talk mate, no plans yet”.

As it turned out, I was right and the conversation was more or less like this. First via blackberry messenger:

17.26: Alfonso: Here I am at Dublin airport yet again. Have you proposed yet???

17.38: Steve: Mate, we were at this place and blah blah blah [NB this is a literary licence I am taking to cut the long story short, but basically they had been to some romantic thing or the other with this or that glamour; all very beautiful, I have no doubt].

17.44: Alfonso: So????

17.45: Steve: What are you talking about??

17.45: Alfonso: Not answering my question...

17.50: Steve: Well, you will have to book a flight to Hong Kong for Easter next year, put it that way.

As soon as I read that I stopped and called him,

17.51: Alfonso: Enanooooooooo!!!!!! CONGRATULATIONS!!!!!!!... ‘king hellllllll!!!!.... Finally!!!!!!.... And she said yes and everything!!!!

Steve: hahaha thanks mate, you idiot.

Alfonso: Oh mate, I am really pleased for you both. It was about time!! All this stuff you were doing in France and I was thinking ‘she’s going to dump him if he hasn’t proposed by the time they board the flight back’.

Steve: no mate, that was always the plan. I couldn’t tell you before her though.

Alfonso: fair enough, but you know, she would have dumped you, I am pretty sure!

I briefly also spoke with Carol to congratulate her – and also to check if she knew was she was doing. Thankfully it seemed to me she perfectly knew what she was doing, phew.

That was then and this was now, almost a year later, or thereabout. I can only but wonder how many stories they must have gone through in the build up to this day, to this moment where they have finally done all the “wedding stuff” and it is their time to fully enjoy and celebrate with their family and friends. As I say, it was an honour to share the evening at their table. Carol, Steve: THANK YOU BOTH.

THE MEAL: As with the ushers’ lunch earlier in the day, the food throughout the dinner is of outstanding first class, accompanied by delicious white and red wines. Here are some examples which will speak for themselves:

That was SOME STEAK - thanks Pableras for your input in the selection stage!

One of the most amazingly mouthwatering chocolate mousses ever, fact. Hhhmmmmmmmm.

THE SPEECHES: Throughout the evening there are a number of very personal, emotional, funny and beautiful speeches shared with everyone.

Wedding Day Master of Ceremonies, Rich, hands the micro to Steve for his moment of glory - and what a moment that was- while Steve's sister Leanne stands next to him, to make sure he doesn't joke about her childhood years again.

Hoping to respect the privacy of all of them I want to only specially recall that of Steve’s mum Frances, who stood up and took the micro from her daughter, Leanne. 

As soon as she spoke I had goose bumps from head to toes. I cannot recall a time where such naturally simple yet immensely beautiful words, spoken proudly and most honestly from the bottom of her heart meant so much and could have this effect in other people’s hearts.

To me, considering everything that had happened in recent years, it was an unexpected yet extraordinary trip to the bottom of my heart where I realised, once again, what the important things in life really are, and who we should, above all, love and respect.

It is a truth repeated too often, that we don’t know what we have until we lose it. But I truly believe in making the most of things while we can; they don’t have to be amazing, one-in-a-lifetime 'things'; they can be everyday’s things, whatever, a smile, a whisper, giving a hand to someone, a chocolate cookie, whatever, as long as they work for you - as someone said before, and Woody Allen put on film, 'Whatever Works'.

But, most of all, why not try to being thankful for the good things that happen to you, cherish those moments with all your heart and don’t let tough moments bring you down for ever, adapt to them, learn from them and rather, why not try letting LIFE BE GREAT, every day.

For those words Frances, I thank you wholeheartedly.

As dinner came to a close and desserts were served, the groom’s wedding party closed the speeches for the day and, to top it off, we managed to get the entire room with 90+ guests standing on their feet and wishing loud “Long Live the Bride and the Groom” – all this is in the more Spanish way of 

“VIVAN LOS NOVIOOOOS!!!! VIVAAAAN!!!!!" 

"VIVAN LOS NOVIOOOOS!!! VIVAAAANNN!!!"

"VIVAAAAAN LOOOOOSSS NOVIOOOOOOOSSSS!!!! VIVAAAAANNNNN!!!!!!"

Past 11.30pm and until sometime between 2 and 5 am the following day: we partied, we danced, we sang, we drank (a little), we hugged; we laughed, we almost cried, we jumped, we fell, we crawled, we laughed again; we drank (a little more), we plugged our iPods once the hotel staff asked the DJ to leave (strange HK rules!), we crawled once more; we took taxis, some went home, some had McDonalds (yes, we did; what can I say), some went clubbing... and above all WE FELT ALIVE, YES WE DID.

It was a great day and night. One that we will all remember for years to come. Thank you Carol, Thank you Steve – you guys rock. See you soon wherever that is!

HONG KONG: A Wedding Day, Speeches, Fish & Chips, Preparations and Love. Part One.

Today’s entry is Part One of the wedding day of one of my closest friends, Steve, to his lovely fiancé, and now wife, Carol. This was the original reason why I was travelling to Asia in the first place, which also prompted me to start this Blog, and therefore I feel this day deserves special treatment.

SHARE YOUR THOUGHTS: If you have been to a wedding in Hong Kong, or anywhere else for that matter; if you have been "best man" or "bridesmaid" before, or will be soon; if you are married or will soon be - or if you have any stories or questions you want to share, we'd like to hear from you, WHAT DID YOU LIKE THE MOST, WHAT WAS MORE SCARY/FUN/CRAZY... Feel free to go to the bottom of this page and share with us. And A MILLION THANKS for reading, as always!

Saturday 14 April – Steve’s and Carol’s Hong Kong Wedding Day – Part One, Before the Ceremony.

From very early in the morning there was something special about the day ahead, and here is how it unfolded for me:

07.30am: I wake up and Pableras is already awake. He has been putting down to paper what he would like to say at the wedding. For months we have been debating over emails how many of us should speak at the wedding, and what to say.

To put things more into context, we are five ‘best men’ or ‘ushers’. It means Steve did not choose one and only best man, but a few of us – which in return means a big honour for all of us: Rich, Tobes, Dan, Pabs and me, also known as Fonz. All the other ushers were based in Hong Kong, while I was the only one living abroad. This was a challenge for me since I didn’t have opportunities to meet face-to-face with the other ushers except Pabs until the morning of the wedding, literally. To their great credit, they organized a fantastic stag-do for Steve, which although I was unable to attend I have in good understanding that it was truly epic.

If you have been a ‘best man’ or 'bridesmaid' before you may know what I am referring to. In my case, I have been honoured to have been asked to be one twice before this wedding and it always is as exciting as much as challenging. It is very easy to think that you know the groom/bride so well it will be easy to say things that people will like right away. Wrong. Then you realise it is your friend’s biggest personal day to date, and that of his partner too – as well as for the rest of their families. Some people are natural at speaking in public and with a glass of wine it is all much easier, some others dread it at the mere thought. When it is five of you the puzzle gets even more interesting. Thankfully, I think we managed to play it just right.

Back to Pabs flat: Pableras shares the draft of the words he has been putting together for Steve and Carol. From the moment he starts reading them I have goose bumps up and down my back, thinking how simple as much as beautiful is what he has come up with.

He has shared countless moments with Steve and Carol since day one – while I have only have the opportunity a handful of times. In addition, Pableras has one of the biggest hearts I have ever found and that has come out beautifully in this speech, from his heart.

He has not given a best man speech before and I am impressed he has come up with those beautiful lines, with the natural balance between being personal and ceremonial as well as a little funny but also intimate.

We give the speech a few tweaks here and there and write it down in the computer, so it is easier to read on the spot with the nerves and all.

With Rich becoming the Master of Ceremonies for the day and Dan also giving a speech, I focus on being the last one of the ushers to share a moment with everyone else. Pabs and I agree I should not to go for a speech but for a more interactive mini-show: it is their wedding and everyone present will want to also wish them well, so I write a little script to get everyone to wish them well, in typical Spanish way – more on this later.

11.15am: After collecting our James Bond-like tuxedos in central Hong Kong from Mr Yun, Pabs and I meet Rich and Dan to wrap up the speeches and what else we are going to be doing during the day, while we will meet Tobs later on.

We are meeting at Rich’s office near the Shangrila Hotel, where the wedding will take place. The office is on some 19^th or so floor overseeing part of the Hong Kong bay and some of its high end hotels – it is an impressive view with the green mountains, some of which we were trekking up and down yesterday, just behind them. What a great city of contrasts everywhere, at every opportunity.

HK towers, glamour ads, a pool, a mountain - CONTRASTS

HK architecture - never a dull moment

Rich will be the Master of Ceremonies (MC) during the day, which will mean telling the guests what is going to happen and when or where to go when. As the big rugby player he is, he is definitely suited to be telling people what to do and when, and people will just do it – which makes the other ushers’ lives a little easier. Sweet.

Dan shares with us his speech too. For the second time today I have goose bumps up and down my neck from the start. I have just met Rich and Dan for the first time in person, after months of emails, and it takes me no time to realise why Steve has also picked them as ushers. Rich is also taking the opportunity of being MC to add personal touches every time he has to address everyone. We come up with some really nice ideas and some good jokes too.

We have a feeling people will have a great day.

12.45pm: We meet Steve at the Five-Star Shangrila Hotel. He is looking great. Not only the tuxedo makes him look sharp, he actually, genuinely is looking great. Despite whatever nerves he may be going through, despite any last minute nightmares that we may not know of, he is as relaxed as if he was just a guest in someone else’s wedding.

Before having our ushers’ lunch, we get a sneak preview of the room where the Ceremony will take place. It is beautifully dressed in light cream colours. The variety of white roses is classy and romantic in equal measures, very personal to them. Like it.

The Ceremony room -  beautifully dressed, and Rich

1.30pm: We are sitting around the table for lunch at the hotel’s cocktail bar and Tobes  tells me how he met Steve years ago and how rubbish Steve was at rugby back then. The exchange more or less went like this:

Me: ‘And has his rugby improved at all?’

Tobes: ‘Not one bit, but he never gives up annoying the opposition’

Steve, always interrupting when people talk about him: ‘Yep, like the day you dropped me not even to the Reserves and I had to play for the opposition because they were short on players’

Rich: ‘Yes and you injured at least two of our team!’

Steve: ‘You see??? You see??? That’s what happens when you drop meeee’.

Some things never change.

Steve and Rich at our ushers lunch - it is going to be a great day

FOOD: being a 5 * Hotel you sometimes never know what to expect. It may be either over the top, or simply spot on. 

This small difference goes back to the concept of "Quality", which I learned years ago to be the difference between what you expect, and what you get. For example: 

If you book a five stars hotel in Vietnam and pay, say, $500 a night, you may be perfectly entitled to expect your room to be rather large, with amazingly comfortable beds and complete silence from the street, a great view from the window and a fantastic bath - as well as round-the-clock room service and first class facilities including spa, gym and a large swimming pool and/or a private beach. And the list can go on and on.

However, if when you arrive it turns out that the room is about 40 square metres, it has one noisy and worn out mattress, are facing a busy highway and a wall of bricks at the other end... Then you may be perfectly entitled to believe it really is not a hotel of "great quality".

On the other hand, if you are budget-travelling and book a hotel room for $50 a night in London, you probably expect it to be a small room, with a single bed, facing a wall, with only a shower dish but no bath, let alone room service. 

However, if you get a 100 square metres room, two double beds, river views and a free bottle of champagne, you would most probably think it was a hotel of great quality.

In this instance it was ABSOLUTELY DELICIOUS. We ordered some salads and some fish and chips. Yes, you read correctly, “fish and chips” in Hong Kong. I KNOW. It is not Brighton, is it? Thankfully, the historic British presence, when it comes down to Fish and Chips, is definitely a great legacy. And having access to extraordinary fish by being an island, these guys have really put some serious fish and chips together. And I mean SERIOUS.

FISH (& CHIPS) - TRULY OUTSTANDING

The batter is really light as well as crispy and tasty. Now the cod, and I mean, THE COD is bloody marvellous. It is so fresh and soft you would be forgiven to think it was just picked from the sea, literally. It melts in your mouth within seconds and the meat is simply outstanding. At every mouthful you want already the next, but not wanting to rush as it will come to an end at some point. And the chips, well, the chips are so moreish you have to fight back not to fill yourself with a few too many.

That was TRULY FAN.TAS.TIC.

simply AMAZING Ceasar Salad

Cufflinks: Since I had forgotten to bring my cufflinks from London I had asked Steve earlier that morning if I could borrow a pair from him – via WhatsApp messenger:

Me: Mate, big day today, really hope everything goes well.

Steve: Thanks mate.

Me: Now, can I borrow some cufflinks from you, didn’t bring them from London.

Steve: You muppet. I’ll see what I can do.

Out of the blue during lunch Steve presents each of us with some amazing silver cufflinks, to say thank you for being his ushers and from what we had done and were going to do on the day.

CORRECTION: No Steve, you do not have to thank us for that. On the contrary, we thank you for having given us the opportunity in the first place. And for the cufflinks, and the meal – God, that was really good.

2.30pm: I have now had the chance to see Carol, who is looking absolutely gorgeous. Not only is she a naturally beautiful girl, she has great style in everything she wears and on this big day she still manages to take things to a whole new level. GORGEOUS. The five bridesmaids are also looking beautiful with very smart and classy purple dresses.

I have also by now seen Frances, Steve’s mum, and his sister Leanne. They are both looking also great. It is not only the lovely outfits they are wearing or the classy and subtle makeup and hair styles. There is a special spark of happiness in their eyes for this big day, for what it means for Steve and for what it means for them too. It is an honour to be part of it all.

All guests start to arrive. There is a great mix of people from many countries. As with most of the weddings I have been to in recent years, for people of my generation this is completely normal.

Isn’t it great that nowadays one can have friends, good friends, literally from every corner of the planet? – and that in special occasions, such as this one, they all make the journey to be part of it and share this great day? I have been lucky enough to have been brought up in Spain –way before the current economic situation- and have also lived in Italy and England, whilst have too had the opportunity to travel for work to many countries around the world, as well as holidaying in many countries. During all these years I have met many great people and it is encouraging to see how almost everyone, nowadays, has the opportunity to do just that.

For that, if I may, I love globalization. And the likes of Social Media sites that allow you to be in contact with everyone you know at the touch of a click. Simples. Like it.

We are just a few minutes away from the start of the Ceremony. After months of preparations, this is what it all comes down to. A final check by everyone involved making sure everything is in place, guests have taken their seats, both families are in the front rows, the ushers take our place, the bridesmaids are all set for the Bride to make her entrance. One big deep breath and this is what this is all about. TO BE CONTINUED...

END OF PART ONE: I am finishing Part One here with a final check by some of the ushers - and I am leaving a Part Two for the Ceremony and the fun celebrations that followed afterwards. 

Three of the ushers get the final check - Myself, Dan and Pabs

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HONG KONG: A mighty trek around Hong Kong. Loved it. VIDEOS INCLUDED!

Friday 13 April – A MIGHTY TREK AROUND HONG KONG, LOVED IT - VIDEOS INCLUDED!

Today’s blog is mostly about a 2.5hr long trek we did outside of Hong Kong. It is something VERY different than the usual Hong Kong experience. I hope I have been able to capture the effort, sweat, the views and ultimate joy that came when we completed it... 

11.00am: David and I are on the taxi to meet Steve, Claire and Avril to do this trek, “The Twin Peaks”. The driver has some sort of nervous tic and slaps himself on his right leg at every opportunity whilst shaking his head. After what we’ve seen this is perfectly normal – and at least he is not driving a scooter in Saigon.

‘It should be a nice trek’ I tell David. ‘Steve says it’ll be around an hour, all very nice and green’.

‘Sounds good to me’ responds David, who is also wearing his new trekking trainers.

11.15am: David and I meet Steve, Claire and Avril at the Shangrila hotel just as they are having their petit dejeneur (excuse my French). Thing is, this is the lobby of this 5 star hotel and we are all wearing shorts, trainers, gym tshirts and rucksacks – surrounded by executives in suits and all smart wealthy hotel guests; as I say, perfectly normal. At this point all of us but Steve believe ‘the twins’ means two peaks: one and two, the twins, easy. How wrong we were we only found out one way...

View of Hong Kong as we start our way up... to hell

11.45am: the taxi drops us somewhere East of HK and Steve goes:

‘Ok guys listen up, so this is what we are going to do [reminding me of the guide on that boat day in Vietnam a few weeks back, see blog entry 01 April]: we are going to go up this one hill, which should be easy no more than 15 minutes, we’ll take some photos. Then we’ll go down the hill and up another hill at the other side and that should be it’.

Easy enough. Sweet.

Liar.

11.55am: we are sort of half way up this first peak. It is a hot day, in its high 20s. It is humid too but thankfully, and crucially, it is cloudy but not threatening rain. All in all decent conditions. We are walking up these concrete steps that have been there for a while but look in good condition – surrounded by bushes and low trees of not more than 3-4 metres tall. It is all very green around us and it already seems incredible we were in a jungle of skyscrapers, towers and traffic just 15 minutes ago. That is nice.

12.05pm: we reach the peak of the first of the two hills of the day. It was about 25 minutes, it was not super difficult but since it is hot and humid, good sweat has broken across the board.

Sweat is just starting a we reach Peak 1. Great view around.

‘Right that was just the warm up’ says Steve, all relaxed ‘Now we are going down this hill, up that one, and then up another one’. Here is the moment on camera:

Hhhhmmmm... that doesn’t quite sound what we had agreed to – that is not what our Vietnam ‘listen everybody’ tour guide did either.

But well, it is all new for us, it is a Friday morning, we are not in an office; we can either go ahead, or go back and miss out. We go ahead. Still easy, ok it is three and not two hills – can handle that.

At the top of this first hill the view is all green and a number of hills around us. In the distance we can see some of Hong Kong towers, the sea, a big lake and more hills.

12.20pm: we have gone down one hill and are going up the second. Steve and Macca –both kind of fitness freaks, in a nice way- start to slowly break away and Avril, David and I drop a few metres back at a slightly more leisure pace. At one turn there is a great view as all we see is downhill and everything is super green. No people, no buildings, all green – and all downhill, yay!

All the view is green - and downhill, yay!

 Mother Nature... GREAT to see you again.

12.45pm: we have completed a third peak and still feel strong and excited. It is definitely not our average Friday morning.

We have reached Peak 3 - Avril, Macca, Steve and I (David the photographer)

 As we start going down we are all sweating big time and Steve and Macca are way ahead.

‘They are competing to see who gets there first’ says Avril.

‘Absolutely, always so competitive’ I agree. They can run as much as they want I will not be chasing them.

Steve and Macca off they go in this amazing place

David’s new trainers prove to be a little too new and he has some blisters which he is taking care of. I would not want to be in his situation right now.

David fixing his feet

Best thing is that the view really is impressive, everything so untouched and preserved; we can see water at both our right and left, a big water reserve, a beach in the distance.

 And whilst all that is well and good, what we are really thinking is that ‘these are not twins... these are more like quadruplets’.

1.00pm: THIS IS IT.

Steve: ‘OK guys, now, we have done three warm up peaks. Here is when the real trek starts’ he announces, just as we stop at some junction at the bottom of the third hill of the day.

Junction before going right or left - Steve usually doesn't look that big, sorry pal.

‘If you are really tired, you can follow this 3-4km flat path around the next two peaks [aka “The Twins”] or you can go up with me. The first peak is 1,000 steps; actually some people have taken the effort to mark some of the steps as you go up to have some references, which makes it easier’ he explains, all cool and relaxed. ‘The second one is about a third of that, but the first one is the tricky one’.

Everyone looks at each other.

Hhhmmm.

Macca spots a sign that reads “1hr and 3/4 up”.

‘Don’t worry, I have done it in 17 minutes’ says Steve, proud. We didn’t know at the time that he was lying, blatantly.

David and Avril decide to go around the twins.

Macca decides to follow Steve, which really is no surprise to me.

We are here in that box in soft orange-pink. Basically the middle of nowhere.

 I have been working out pretty much daily in the month before this trip, I think I am in a reasonable fit condition despite the beers and little exercise of the past two weeks. I take everything into account, being in Hong Kong, on a Friday morning, out in the middle of nowhere, with a good couple of mates, sweating like I’ve just had a shower of sweat and realising I have not done this before.

Crucially and more importantly, I cannot consider myself any less fit than Steve and I will not give him a chance to think that.

What the hell, LET’S DO THIS.

At this moment however you do not stop to make numbers. You do not stop to think it is 1,000 steps, one after another, which after around the 2,000 we’ve just done in the past three hills, is actually a lot – but that subtle message Steve has just delivered of ‘I have done it in 17 minutes’ helps you think ‘it will not be that tough if he’s done it that quick’.

A lie that helps is a sweet lie, in a way.

The following times are really a guess but I have scientifically worked out that it takes on average about one second per step. Excluding any unforeseen stops to rest, of which there will be many, it should be:

1 step x second = 60 steps per minute

60 steps per minute = 600 steps per ten minutes

1000 steps = 16.67 minutes approximately.

But as I said, you do not stop then to think about this when you start.

You do not go and say it is just under 20 minutes, easy.

You do not think you will need ten or more breaks.

You do not think you will lose Steve and Macca for most of it.

You do this a few weeks later, back home, when you look back and remember EVERY SINGLE BLOODY STEP

... and HOW GREAT IT WAS.

Circa 1.10pm: About 200 steps in Steve and Macca are starting to pull away. I AM SWEATING. A LOT. Here is a video so you can understand better what we were going through - excuse some of the language:

We see a sign reading “200”.’Ok this is a fifth of the distance, come on Alfonso!’ shouts Macca, all encouraging.

And a few steps up we see another sign “200”.

‘Huh?’

And another one.

‘Ok, if they don’t agree on the first 200 how are they going to by the time we reach 1,000...’ I ask myself.

Circa 1.17pm: Somewhere between 400 and 500 steps. Or anywhere below that mark. I am stopping again to take some breath. My heart pulse is fast, my breathing slow and deep. Macca is about 70 steps away and I can barely see her.

By the way, we have only seen two people all morning. It is Friday after all.

 On the way up - steps and more steps, for the fourth time today

Circa 1.23pm: Somewhere between 500 and 700 steps. Some of them are really steep. You are surrounded by low trees, you can hear crickets and other noisy tiny insects but you cannot see them.

My breathing and heartbeat have stabilised by now but remain slow and fast respectively. The drops of sweat cover my forehead and fall all over my clothes like rain – my clothes are drenched in sweat, literally.

The uncertainty of what lies ahead, how far, how steep, how challenging... mixes up with the adrenaline and thrill of doing this trek in the middle of Hong Kong, in April, on a Friday morning...

... and I AM LOVING THIS MOMENT VERY MUCH. I FEEL 100% ALIVE.

And that is fantastic.

I can feel tired, I can feel heavy legs, I can feel the sweat down my neck, my arms or legs, I can hear my body saying ‘give me a break’ but my brain decides to ignore him because I CAN FEEL IT.

I have become two in one, my body, my brain; or even three, my soul, as I take all the scenery in. ‘I should this way more often’ I tell myself.

By now I have lost Steve and Macca and I am talking to myself.

I am cheering for myself ‘come on you lazy arse, get on with it you muppet’.

Circa 1.30pm: Somewhere between 700 and 800 steps. I can see Macca who says we have reached the 700 mark. She waits as I walk up and I cannot see the bloody number. I literally cannot see it. ‘It is in front of you, there!’ she tells me – and I can’t see it. All I can see are steps and more steps. There are some openings on the trees and the clouds have thinned, which means the slight direct sunlight feels really hot.

Circa 1.36pm: I do not know how long I have left. We have been on this trek for nearly two hours and I am pouring down with sweat like never before.

I have a feeling I must be close. I keep walking up, it is flattening down... and there we are.I can see both Macca and Steve at the top of the peak cheering for me.

‘YESSSSS!!! MADE IT!!! YESSSS!!! BLOODY HELL!!!! YESSSS!!!’

We all high five each other.

"Steve you are a great mate but I'll get you back later".... and smile! 

‘Bloody hell! That was some walk!’ I shout excited for having completed it. ‘But mate, where the hell does the Twins thing come from?! You blatantly lied!!” I accuse Steve. ‘Just exactly what we need the day before your wedding!’

I was accusing him as much as thanking him. The feeling of accomplishment could not be any greater. The moments where you were on your own, really thinking ‘what the hell am I doing here’, ‘how much is left’, ‘where is the swimming pool’... are all left behind in an instant.

You have made it, you are there with your two friends who have just done the same thing. You feel great.

We take a short break of not more than a couple of minutes so that the legs do not relax too much and start our way down before going up the final hill of the day.

Circa 1.50pm: we are on the way up this final peak of the day. It is by no measures any easier than the previous one however knowing it is about a third of that should help.

Well, it didn’t really.

And, for the record, it wasn’t a third of that but more like about half of it. Thanks Steve, really. THANKS.

Final way up of the day - had its own moments

Circa 1.58pm: I have again lost Macca and Steve but I am ok. I am always comfortable in my own company so this is no different. Though this time it really is.

We have just gone up and down four great peaks and this is, really, the final one. In a way it feels like a good book that you don’t want to finish, or a good cake that only has a few mouthfuls left.

Yes, this has been tiring, painful and at times lonely. But it has also felt great. In a twisted way you do not want it to finish because you know finishing means it is back to the ‘real world’ out there with its concrete and traffic.

I am taking these final 500 steps very slowly, enjoying them as much as hating them. Your brain says ‘do it’ whilst your body says ‘get me home’ and you are the referee between the two. Your soul by now is up there somewhere having a time of his own.

Circa 2.06pm: We have reached the peak. And this really is the final peak of the day – a feeling which is a first all morning. All we have to do now is GO DOWN, YAY!!! No more way up, just down, down, down... BRING IT ON.

Thing is, we are late for lunch with one of Steve’s friends. And we also do not know how Avril and David got on.

What do you do? The most obvious thing in the world: YOU RUN DOWNHILL.

Yes, you read correctly. We ran down all the way. Not only had we just gone up some 3,500 steps and down another 3,500 in the past two hours. We have another 1,000 steps down left and we are running them. Here is the clip - excuse the language:

ABSOLUTELY BLOODY BRILLIANT!!!

The scenery is more of the same, and as beautiful as the rest, but you see more and more buildings, hear more human noises and schools and road works and traffic...

Mother Nature, we leave you in peace. Thank you again.

Circa 2.20pm: We meet Avril and David at the base of the final peak. They are ok and enjoyed their walk too. Everyone is feeling great and cannot wait to get our hands on some cold drinks and some food.

It has been a FANTASTIC TREK. I am so pleased I went the 1,000 steps up and did that. I was always the last of us three but it was such a great effort. All those days in the gym, particularly doing the staircase machine, paid off despite not having done much in the last two weeks.

I am not thinking how my legs will feel tomorrow. I am incredibly delighted for having done this TODAY and enjoying every single drop of sweat that comes down my body. I FEEL ALIVE.

2.30pm: As we jump on a taxi to go for lunch, it becomes some sort of mini steam room but we don’t care. We are not walking anymore. Food and drinks are near. We can feel that too

We arrive to a small port where a typical Chinese festival is taking place with some dragons and big flags. It seems a welcome prepared for us as if they knew we where coming.

Dragon welcome party - for us!

I buy a new t-shirt for $3 as mine is completely and literally drenched in sweat – that will take some washing. My shorts are also completely drenched but they’ll survive.

Tshirt and trousers completely drenched in sweat - sweet.

I then spend some ten minutes stretching my legs and back by the waterfront. I am normally really bad at stretching but I can feel this is doing me good. As I stretch I look back at what we just did and some of the sensations I had at times. It was much longer journey on a personal level than what it actually was in distance. And I loved it.

Steve, thank you for that. It really was a great experience and I look forward to doing another one another day with you wherever it is.

The rest of the day was very quiet and relaxed, as you can imagine, preparing for the BIG WEDDING DAY ON SATURDAY. More on that in the next entry.

For now, it is all about feeling great and lucky to be healthy and able to do these things from time to time.

THANK YOU WORLD.